Trip Reports
Trip Reports
I was really excited to spend five nights on board Seabourn Ovation, sailing from Rouen on the Seine round to Dover via Plymouth, Portland and Portsmouth. This is the kind of itinerary that really showcases what a luxury small ship cruise looks like in cooler climates. A bit of France, a bit of southern England, a working river and a Channel crossing, all wrapped up in a ship that knows exactly how to look after you when the weather refuses to behave.
Seabourn Ovation is all-suite and all-veranda, and 709 is a V2 category on Deck 7. Walking in, you find a walk-in closet with proper storage and hanging space, a fluffy bathrobe and slippers, a hairdryer and a safe. The bathroom is a good size and well thought out, with a double sink, a full bath, an enclosed glass shower and Molton Brown products. The bedroom has a queen or twin configuration, USB charging at the bedside and a flat-screen TV that streams Netflix as well as Seabourn information channels for restaurant menus, excursions and bookable spa treatments.
What lifts it above a standard luxury cabin is the separate seating area with a proper sofa, a fully stocked fridge, glasses and cutlery cupboards and a table with comfortable chairs for in-suite dining. There is a chilled bottle of Champagne waiting on arrival, a daily turn-down service with chocolates and The Herald placed on the bed every evening with the next day's port information and the daily dining guide. Excellent nighttime reading for planning your day ahead.
After the Eurostar from St Pancras to Gare du Nord, a quick car across Paris to Saint-Lazare and a second train down to Rouen, we boarded mid-afternoon and headed straight to Seabourn Square on Deck 7. Our suite was ready. Our room attendants were waiting and could not have been more helpful from the first hello onward.
Dinner was at Earth & Ocean at the Patio, the most casual restaurant on board, served poolside under twinkly lights with the heaters on. April evenings on the Seine are cool, but they have the setup for it, and you barely notice. I had pork bao confit buns, roasted salmon with spiced black lentils and a piña colada soufflé that I think about now. Our waiter, Captain Philp (not the real Captain of course!) looked after us through the evening. Then on to The Club for the live band and a dance before turning in.
Breakfast was at The Colonnade outside, where we were making the most of the pleasant morning sunshine. The buffet is wide-ranging, with yoghurts, fruit, oats, continental meats and cheeses, a hot section, an à la carte option, and a daily juice shot. I had a carrot and ginger shot, fruit, yoghurt and a poached egg with avocado on toast.
A morning walk along the river took us to Rouen city centre in about thirty minutes, passing cafés and gardens. The Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Rouen is one of the most famous Gothic cathedrals in the world, with three towers each in a different style. I learnt some new facts, such as that Claude Monet painted it 30 times. As I stepped inside, the stained-glass windows took me aback. It was stunning.
We went back to the ship for the 2pm sail away poolside, with Champagne and a delicious lunch (rocket salad with chickpeas, olive oil and lemon, and grilled tiger prawns) while Nick the Cruise Director and Caroline the Entertainment Manager sang classical favourites. Later, we had some downtime in the whirlpool at the front of the ship on Deck 7 as we cruised the Seine. How lucky was I, sitting in a warm whirlpool with the cool April air on my face, watching French châteaux and greenery slide past. It was magical, and the kind of moment a luxury small ship cruise in Northern Europe does better than anywhere else.
Dinner was at the Indian Market-themed night at The Colonnade. We had Tandoori chicken on the bone with rice and a little pastry for dessert. Then, for showtime at the Grand Salon where we had 3 artists who were a mix of samba, jazz and folk, all of whom I would happily see again.
Breakfast was outside again at The Colonnade. It was cooler this time, but they brought blankets and switched on the heaters, so there was no need to retreat. I had a minute steak from the grill on the breakfast menu, medium rare, cooked to perfection.
Then we had a tender ride into Plymouth, a little choppy with the high winds, but the crew were on hand to help on and off. A stroll around the Barbican with its cobbled streets and quaint shops, then back to the ship for afternoon tea at the Observation Bar. Stunning views, a relaxing pianist in the background, loose-leaf tea served from decorative teapots. Finger sandwiches, scones (cream or jam first, the great debate), macarons and little pastries. I opted for the Moroccan mint.
Then, dinner at The Colonnade for the Chinese-themed evening, à la carte this time. Prawn crackers and sweet and sour at the table to start. I had steamed pork and dim sum, Szechuan chicken and the Asian fruit salad basket with lychee gelato. Fabulous food again. Ready for show time at the Grand Salon for the Seabourn Six, then live music at The Club before bed.
A breakfast at The Colonnade… again, then a deliberate decision to stay on board and make use of ship properly. Lunch was at Sushi, the Japanese restaurant. I am not normally a sushi girl, but I gave it a try and wow. Miso soup, market salad with pickled vegetables, gyoza bento dumplings and a yuzu sorbet that is the best sorbet I have ever tasted. You must give this a try.
Our afternoon was spent in the Spa, which is where Ovation really earns her place on a cool-climate sailing. An hour first in the Thermal Suite (experience showers, Mediterranean sauna, aroma steam bath, hot bed), then a 75-minute treatment with full body massage, mini facial, head massage and foot and ankle massage. So Zen, I fell asleep.
Finally, up to the pool for Seabourn's ABBA & Caviar party, dancing to ABBA classics in the late afternoon. Then dinner at The Restaurant, the most elegant dining room on board, with crisp white linens, chandelier lighting and blue tones throughout. Seared beef carpaccio, truffle-roasted crispy chicken and vanilla gelato. Colourful People again for the late show before turning in.
After breakfast at The Colonnade and a wander around the outdoor decks, I settled into Seabourn Square to write up some notes. It is the hub of the ship and the most sociable, peaceful place I can think of on board. Guests grab coffee and pastries, chatting, reading and contributing to the giant table puzzle. Outdoor seating too, with blankets if you need them.
Lunch poolside at Earth & Ocean at the Patio for the famous Seabourn signature burger. Huge, cooked medium-rare to my taste, with the crispest light fries I have tasted. A real winner.
The bridge visit was arranged through Guest Services and is well worth requesting. A full tour with 360-degree views and a proper explanation of how the ship operates, with the binoculars out for good measure. Sail away from Portsmouth was at The Patio poolside with the band playing, cocktails and Champagne flowing, and Nick the Cruise Director showcasing the crew who had made the trip what it was.
Our final dinner was at Solis, the newest restaurant on board, with Mediterranean flavours and a cocktail list named after silver screen stars. I had the Brigitte Bardot before sitting down to tuna carpaccio, Barolo braised veal ossobuco that fell off the bone, grilled gambas and raspberry sorbet. A lovely evening to look back on the week. One last show at the Grand Salon and a last visit to The Club before bed.
Off the ship in Dover, feeling a little sad to leave. The crew were the highlight from start to finish. Nothing was ever too much trouble, and they all seemed so happy in their work.
A few thoughts now that I am back at my desk. Ovation handles cool-climate cruising in the way only a properly luxurious small ship can. The Colonnade has the outdoor heaters and blankets ready, which matters when you want to eat breakfast watching a river slide past in April. The Observation Bar comes into its own when the views need framing through glass rather than a sunhat. The Thermal Suite and the indoor spaces hold up better than most on a wet afternoon.
Ports work well at this scale. Plymouth tendered comfortably even with the wind up. The Seine took the ship right into the heart of Rouen. Portsmouth and Portland are easy walks ashore.
After this summer's Northern Europe season and the autumn New England programme, Seabourn Ovation moves to Caribbean and Mediterranean itineraries with early and late season sailings...
If you would like to talk through a cool-climate sailing on her, or compare her to the other Seabourn ships, give us a call.
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