Light is the first thing you notice. It hits differently here,
sharp and warm at the same time, turning stone walls gold and
making the sea look painted. Greece gives you islands where
whitewashed houses stack up hillsides and fishing boats still tie
up at dawn. Croatia's ports sit inside stone walls built when
Venice ruled the Adriatic, and you can walk the ramparts before the
day-trippers arrive. Italy unfolds slowly, terracotta roofs, lemon
groves clinging to cliffs, cappuccino at a harbour café while
locals go about their business. The French Riviera feels polished,
with Belle Époque villas and yacht clubs where someone is always
adjusting a sail.
Small ships let you skip the tourist rush. You might find
yourself wandering a cobbled alley alone, buying figs at a market
that has run for centuries, or eating grilled fish at a taverna
where the owner knows the boat.