Trip Reports
Trip Reports
Whether you are inspired by the sights of towering castles, iconic cathedrals or manicured vineyards, an autumn river cruise along the Rhine is sure to tick all the boxes. Read my review of Uniworld's Castles along the Rhine voyage on their brand-new vessel, the S.S. Victoria.
The Rhine has been on my list for an exceptionally long time and we chose an itinerary with Uniworld, sailing from Basel to Amsterdam on the S.S. Victoria. After a short flight from London Heathrow to Basel and a 15-minute transfer from the airport we were on board!
We had barely been on board for an hour and there were signs that this was going to be a lively, warm and welcoming cruise. A scrumptious lunch was served, and the sun was out in full force at a balmy 21 degrees! How was this possible in the middle of October, we thought?!
Our vessel, the S.S. Victoria, the newest ship in Uniworld's fleet, is designed to modern and contemporary perfection, with all French balcony accommodation - ideal for this picturesque cruise showcased in autumnal hues.
We had free time in Basel before we set sail, a city home to 40 museums, a charming Old Town and trendy modern architecture; after debating on what to do we decided on a walk along the river, and on a Sunday afternoon this was the perfect choice.
Then, our first evening on board started with a welcome reception followed by an introduction to our cruise manager along with the captain and his team. We were invited to the main lounge which bears resemblance to a chic boutique hotel. Finally, after a four course à la carte dinner in the main dining room and a swift nightcap with our fellow passengers, it was time to retire to our cabin.
Our first stop was Breisach and we were off to a fairytale town on the Alsace Wine Route in Kayersberg which is the German name for Emperor's Mountain. An old stone well in Kaysersberg bears an inscription that warns against drinking water and urges the reader to: "Drink with moderation old and subtle wine - and leave the water to the side." Fitting words for an idyllic town nestled among vineyards! However, we did not take this sage advice on board. We thought at 10am it was more sensible to partake in sampling their traditional Bundt cake which tasted like panettone - delicious with a brew.
We continued our tour to an Alsace village where you can visit a 12th-century castle following a short hike, with views of this quaint village that were just breathtaking. After our visit to the castle we went to a local restaurant to try their famous tarte flambée which is also known as Flammmekueche. This is a thin-crust pizza topped with layers of fromage and lots of toppings of your choice, washed down with a glass of crémant d'Alsace - the prefect end to this wonderful tour.
As we arrived back on board we were greeted by our wonderful crew alongside a hot beverage and freshly baked biscuits. This evening was our welcome gala dinner and there was an element of excitement on board as we were very much looking forward to getting dressed up in our finest attire.
Our evening started off with a champagne reception in the main lounge followed by a speech from the captain and his trusted assistants. Then, a delicious five-course meal awaited us in the main dining room, accompanied by pairing wines chosen by the wine sommelier on board. A great night was had by all - and a rather merry one for some!
The following day we visited Strasbourg, a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1988 and home to the European Court of Human Rights. If this was not impressive enough, the quaint houses along the canal and a very impressive cathedral makes this city very charming indeed, with its multicultural blend of French and German. A stroll through Petite-France is a must, a lively tourist hub nestled in the middle of the city lined with Alsatian eateries, souvenirs, shops and the most wonderful French boutiques.
Tonight there was another special event planned - a 70s fancy dress party! I wondered how many of our fellow guests had brought their 70s gear - it was actually quite a few! Our cruise manager, Daniel, was the epitome of a jack of all trades - historian by day to a bopping disco Stu by night to get the party started. This event takes place on every Uniworld River Cruise and you are notified well in advance so you have enough time to plan your outfit if you wish to participate…!
I just love scenic river cruising and the next day was no exception as we sailed past more than 30 castles on the Rhine, lined by beautiful orange-hued trees, eagerly waiting to see the Rock and statue of Lorelei. Our cruise manager told us this enchanting folklore with such passion and as we sailed past we had the perfect view, with the song "Lorelei on the Rhine" echoing on the music system - a fitting tribute to keep this wonderful myth alive.
The cruise was just getting better and better - a personal highlight for me was a visit to a Secret Garden as we enjoyed a private tour of a unique old flour mill tucked away in the forest, the inactive mill having been transformed into a beautiful, tranquil, oriental-inspired garden sanctuary dotted with giant Buddha statues along with artefacts from Papua New Guinea and Indonesia. What a treat this was, a unique experience only available to Uniworld's guests.
No Rhine cruise is complete without wine tasting and the oldest Riesling vineyard dating back to the year 1211 hosted us today, home to a 14-century tower and castle, with beautiful gold-embossed Flemish leather wall coverings. Just breathtaking!
Our wine expert gave a detailed tour of the castle and the history of this ancient monument. We were then invited to try the wines - I must admit at 10am a liquid breakfast was not what I had in mind, however we chose to blissfully forget what time of the day it was!
Sadly all good things must come to an end and our final port of call was Cologne, Germany's fourth largest city. The ship docked in the heart of the city, perfect for us to embark on our walking tour. We started at the Old Fish market, then City Hall with its Renaissance façade, and the old Jewish mikvah (a bath used for cleansing), finishing at the Cologne Cathedral.
This Gothic structure is quite a spectacle and is a must-see when visiting in Cologne. Finally, back on board and the S.S. Victoria headed to Amsterdam where we would disembark the ship. Up on the sprawling sun deck, we were armed with a glass of fizz, ready for sail-away, the protruding twin spires of Cologne Cathedral in full view. We relish this moment of utter bliss, and I think about how I cannot wait to plan my next river cruise.
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