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Destination - Tahiti
Travel writer David Wishart explores the beautiful islands of French Polynesia
Panama Canal
A destination that should be on everyone’s “hit list”
Everyone has a ‘must do’ list – even if it is only in their head. And for most cruisers, the Panama Canal is a destination which will feature somewhere on it. Of all the canal transits you might make by cruise ship (Kiel, Suez, Corinth) this is one of the most exciting as you witness the sheer immensity of the engineering feat which created it, transitting locks and cruising across the Gatun Lake.
One of those irritating Trivial Pursuits questions involves the direction you travel from the Atlantic/Caribbean to the Pacific through the Canal. It is counter-intuitive that you sail from Northwest (Caribbean) to SouthEast (Pacific), as that relatively thin strip of land which is Central America snakes its way between North and South America.
The history of the Panama Canal goes back to the 16th century, when traders and explorers carrying the riches of Peru, Ecuador, and Asia back to Spain, suggested in 1524 to Charles V, that by cutting out a piece of land somewhere in Panama, the trips would be made shorter. A survey of the isthmus was ordered and subsequently a working plan for a canal was drawn up in 1529, but other pressures intervened and the project was put on hold.
In the early 19th century, Alexander von Humboldt revived interest in the project, and in 1819 the Spanish government formally authorized the construction of a canal and the creation of a company to build it. The discovery of gold in California in 1848 and the rush of would-be miners stimulated America’s interest in digging the canal.
Various surveys made between 1850 and 1875 showed that only two routes were practical, the one across Panama and another across Nicaragua. In 1876 an international company was organized; two years later it obtained a concession from the Colombian government to dig a canal across the isthmus. When it failed, a French company was organized by Ferdinand Marie de Lesseps, the builder of the Suez Canal. Long years of surveys and setbacks followed, terminating in an agreement between the United States and the new state of Panama who signed the Hay-Bunau-Varilla treaty, by which the United States guaranteed the independence of Panama and secured a perpetual lease on a 10-mile strip for the canal. Panama was to be compensated by an initial payment of $10 million and an annuity of $250,000, beginning in 1913. This strip is now known as the Canal Zone.
The Panama Canal was constructed in two stages. The first between 1881 and 1888, and the second, which eventually completed the canal’s construction, between 1904 and 1914. It was during this second stage that it was finally decided that the canal would be a lock canal, with the structure we experience when we transit the canal today. What makes the Panama Canal remarkable is its self sufficiency. The dam at Gatun is able to generate the electricity to run all the motors which operate the canal as well as the locomotives in charge of towing the ships through the canal. No force is required to adjust the water level between the locks except gravity. As the lock operates, the water simply flows into the locks from the lakes or flows out to the sea level channels. The canal also relies on the overabundant rainfall of the area to compensate for the loss of the 52 million gallons of fresh water consumed during each crossing. The 51-mile crossing takes about nine hours to complete.
The fascinating history of this great canal, and the opportunity to learn more about it, combined with the wonderful daylong experience of the transit, create the centrepiece of a range of Panama Canal cruise options.
Longer cruises (14-16 days) operate from Florida to Los Angeles, whilst shorter itineraries give a west coast turnaround of Acapulco in Mexico or Caldera in Costa Rica – occasionally you will have the option to turn left rather than right when emerging into the Pacific, if your canal cruise is part of a longer Round South America cruise. The opportunity to explore some of the Central American countries is available on some itineraries, and in particular it is worth considering a pre- or post-cruise stay in San Jose to explore the beautiful country of Costa Rica.
When picking your cruise, ensure that the cruise line has booked a Daylight transit of the Canal so that you can really enjoy the experience. Some cruise lines simply enter the Canal and take you as far as the Gatun Lake before coming back, rather than going right through to the Pacific. The cruise line will probably have a lecturer on board to talk to you about the experience and history during the transit. The climate is hot and humid, so this is the perfect time to watch the wonders unfold from the air-conditioned comfort of an observation lounge.
Costa Rica is an oasis of calm within Central America, and an ecotourism heaven, making it one of the best places to experience the tropics with minimal impact. Lush jungles are home to playful monkeys, languid sloths, crocodiles, countless lizards, poison-dart frogs and a mind-boggling assortment of exotic birds, insects and butterflies. Meanwhile, endangered sea turtles nest on both coasts and cloud forests protect elusive birds and jungle cats. San Jose, the capital is high up in the centre of the country and convenient for the Cloud Forest tour, and there are some good quality hotels here.
Cosmopolitan Acapulco is the playground of Mexico, with some very beautiful hotels set alongside a series of bays. Some of the resort is rather down-market, so be careful to let the experts assist you in the choice of hotel. You may choose to set forth from here on a tour of some of the fascinating Aztec sites and ruins further inland – Mexico is a very fascinating country with a rich history.














