The exquisite art and architecture of the Mughal emperors, the sumptuous splendour of the Maharajahs , the grandeur of the British Raj – India’s rich and varied past makes it an endlessly exciting and fascinating destination.

Many trips will begin in Mumbai (Bombay) where the buildings reflect Victorian grandeur: the monumental Gateway of India, the Taj Hotel, the ornate Railway Station and the Museum now share the city with colourful temples, a cacophony of traffic, sacred cows wandering at will and garish cinema hoardings – remember you are in Bollywood! Not to be missed in Mumbai is the amazing Dhobi Ghat: the city’s outdoor laundry. Believe me, it is quite a sight, and a wonderful contrast to more traditional pleasures like afternoon tea at the Taj!

Take a short flight to Rajasthan and step back in time. The enchanting lakeside town of Udaipur, featured in the James Bond film Octopussy, is a kingdom which was never conquered either by the Mughals or the British, and is still ruled by the Maharana (a step up from a Maharajah!). The whole area is a photographer’s heaven. Lake Pichola is dotted with small island palaces, the town of Udaipur comes right down to the shore. The huge City Palace is now partly a museum, partly a hotel and partly still the Royal residence. Visitors to its rambling halls, courtyards and terraces will be rewarded with extraordinary architecture and fine decorations dating from the 16th to 20th centuries. A stroll through town is a delight: elaborately decorated houses line the main street thronged with sacred cows, the occasional elephant, scooters, trishaws and colourfully clad ladies shopping for exotic produce – and of course enthusiastic vendors (I’ll come back to the shopping later!)

The next highlight on a tour could be Jaipur. The Pink City, founded in 1726 was India’s first planned city with wide avenues and a grid system. Its founder, Rajah Jai Singh II, was an extraordinary man, a scholar and astronomer, he had a great appreciation of art and beauty and his heritage is very evident when you visit the Royal Observatory, its giant stone instruments still accurate, see the ornate façade of the Palace of the Winds, built so that the ladies of the Palace could see the bustle of city life without being seen, and visit the City Museum, a palace complex crammed with treasures ranging from jewelled and embroidered costumes to lavishly decorated weapons, carpets and paintings.

High above Jaipur is the Amber Palace, reached by elephant if you like (but a jeep is quicker!).
Regarded as one of the most beautiful in India, this palace is truly spectacular. The main courtyard with gardens leads to another with a many-columned Audience Hall, then through an elaborately carved gateway to the exquisite Mirror Palace where the decorations with intricate designs in mirror, coloured glass and foil create a fairyland, especially when the guide lights a candle and the whole room sparkles like a million diamonds. And Jaipur is a shopaholic’s dream – but I’ll come back to the shopping later!

And then Agra…. the Taj Mahal – in a country of outstanding monuments this is the one that has captured the imagination of the world! Set in gardens backing onto the river, its exquisitely carved white marble domes and minarets are reflected in pools. The marble is inlaid with intricate flower designs in semi precious stones. Agra has even more to offer visitors including Agra Fort, and the Itmad-ad-Daulau, sometimes called the Tiny Taj. Its decoration is even more elaborate than the Taj Mahal – it is like a tiny jewel box of a building – and then there are the crafts – but I’ll come back to the shopping later!

New Delhi is very different from other Indian cities. It was the last and most imposing creation of the British – a truly monumental city designed for pomp and parades by rival architects Edwin Lutyens and Herbert Baker. In Old Delhi, are the hubbub of the Chandni Chowk Bazaar, the Red Fort and the Jama Masjid Mosque, then there’s Even Older Delhi, the 12th century Qtub Minaret and the 16th century Tomb of Humayan, and there’s Modern Delhi (where the shops are!)…..

Those are the highlights of the `Golden Triangle’, but on many cruises you would have the chance to see some of Southern India too. Though not as splendid, there is still a lot to enjoy. In particular Cochin with its mix of an old Synagogue, a Dutch Palace, Chinese fishing nets and pretty waterways, or Goa where the elaborate Portuguese Cathedral seems incongruous in the Indian countryside.

Many people hesitate about visiting India, having heard all sorts of things to worry them. It is a great shame to dismiss this fascinating destination as a result of misapprehensions.

Remember, to visit India there are no compulsory vaccinations or inoculations required. Several are recommended and your doctor will advise you, but you will be travelling in luxury, not slumming, so the choice is yours. Upset stomachs are common, but not mandatory! Take sensible eating and hygiene precautions and you should be fine – if the worst happens, take Immodium!

The poverty, of course, is there – but it is not as in-your-face as some TV documentaries imply.
Remember you are helping by providing work for hotel staff as well as craftspeople and vendors.

When choosing the type of tour you select, don’t even think about going downmarket! At the top end of the scale you will be spoilt for splendour! Superb properties are located in lovely settings, usually furnished with locally crafted furniture and sumptuous silks, offering spas, entertainment and all the facilities you could wish for.

All the hotels offer at least Indian and European restaurants, and some have Chinese too. Lamb and chicken are the most popular meats -beef and pork are not on and fish is not particularly good. There are always tasty vegetarian options.

Indian wines are `work in progress’, but the beer is good and a popular drink is sweet lime soda – fresh lemon juice topped up with soda water with sweetener added to taste – delicious. refreshing and good against malevolent microbes! Tea, or course, is good, whilst for the best coffee, specify South Indian.