What could be more appealing than departing from Venice? This magical city never fails to entrance. I had anticipated that Venice in July might just be the experience which ended its fascination for me, but absolutely not. We stayed as usual at the Metropole – very good value by Venetian standards, and a little off the main drag, the service was as charming as always, whilst the strange creeking stairways, display cabinets crammed with bric a brac, dark corners and cosy rooms all managed to evoke an era of secret assignations and mysterious skullduggery.

As always, five minutes away from the bustle of St Marks Square, we wandered alone through tiny alleyways and mossy squares, catching a glimpse of a hooded figure in the distance, hearing snatches of passionate conversation from shuttered windows or following the sounds of heavenly music which seemed to drift on the breezes or emerge from gated gardens.

The following day, a water taxi whisked us off to Seven Seas Navigator, and that very evening, as we sailed, so slowly that our wake was barely a ripple, past the Doge’s Palace and out to sea, we glimpsed at dusk Venice which has barely changed in several hundred years.

With 490 guests, Seven Seas Navigator is somewhat smaller than her all suite all balcony sisters Mariner and Voyager, but there are many similarities, not least the very spacious accommodation, with every suite boasting a walk-in wardrobe and bathroom with bathtub and separate shower cubicle.

Dining is at a single seating in the Compass Rose Restaurant, and we enjoyed some interesting menus and delightfully attentive service, extremely well supervised by busy section heads and Maitre d’. Pouring wines are complimentary and the standard was good – indeed the selection was more interesting than that offered on the paid for wine list. An alternative Italian evening dining experience is offered in the Portofino Grill – this jolly, participative singalong evening was not so much to our taste although we very much enjoyed the tasting of Italian regional wines and foods which preceeded it.

On embarkation day, the RSSC ‘block party’ concept is in evidence – guests are invited to leave their suites to meet their neighbours over wine and cheese: a nice idea and a good way to break the ice very early in the cruise.

We were cruising the Adriatic, and enjoyed some unusual calls along this pretty coast, the most memorable being the recently opened up Sarande in Albania. Sarande itself is not the most attractive port, but it is the gateway to the Roman city of Butrint (mentioned in Vergil’s Aeneid, the city of Buthrotum) where a programme of excavation is currently underway. Walking past its ancient walls through groves of sweet bay, wandering on the shores of the brackish lake where mussels are farmed to this day, climbing steep staircase to the fortified lookout area, was a wonderful experience enhanced by a local guide who was a recent archeology undergraduate, closely involved with the dig.

En route for Kusadasi, we enjoyed a day at sea, with an exceptionally good deck barbecue. As is often the case with smaller ships, a sunny sea day appears crowded as everyone comes out on deck – but for peace and quiet, you can always retire to the haven of your balcony, or enjoy the excellent selection of films in your suite.

It was an especial pleasure to find an outdoor spot for drinks before dinner, or a coffee afterwards, and the deck area to the aft of the Galileo Lounge was just that. To be able to watch the sun set, a crescent moon in a midnight blue sky, or the rocky outline of an isolated island silhouetted on the horizon, is a magical experience at sea.

The RSSC spas are operated by Paris based Carita – a welcome change from the ubiquitous Elemis – and the treatments are excellent. This peaceful haven featured not just the spa, but also the gym and fitness room, with an extensive fitness programme including yoga, pilates and fitball training offered by a very hardworking fitness instructor.

Our cruise finished in Piraeus, and we took the opportunity to stay on in Athens, and refresh our knowledge of the breathtaking sights of this ancient city. A steady breeze was a relief in the sweltering August sun as we looked out to sea from the acropolis, and later that evening, we particularly enjoyed the changing light as we watched the sun set from the beautiful rooftop bar and restaurant at the Hotel Grande Bretagne.