Located 600 miles to the West of Ecuador, isolated on the Equator in the Pacific Ocean, the Galapagos Islands offer a unique opportunity to witness close-up an extraordinary diversity of marine creatures and birdlife alongside unique land creatures in a beautiful but primitive setting. Both on land and beneath the sea, the flora and fauna is abundant and breathtaking – you will see a huge variety of marine creatures and birds, not to mention the dinosaur-like iguanas, the sea lions which frolic at your feet, and the giant tortoises which fearlessly lumber past. In addition, these volcanic islands are stunningly beautiful with their looming peaks, rugged coastlines, and idyllic sandy beaches.

Made up of 15 main islands and several dozen smaller ones, the archipelago does not form part of any major land mass, and has never done so. The volcanic islands rise steeply from the ocean floor, the result of a geological ‘hotspot. They ride on the Nazca Plate which moves east south east at a rate of a few inches per year, and the oldest islands sink slowly back into the sea over millions of years – as a result, the western islands are the youngest, newly formed volcanoes with clearly visible lava flows (indeed Fernandina’s last eruption was in 1995) whilst to the east the land lies lower, and the vegetation is more lush.

Two significant currents affect the climate of the islands – the warm Panama current ensuring sea temperatures of 22-25 degrees from January to May, whilst the cold Humbold current from the south brings the temperature down for the rest of the year, and July to November is known locally as the garua season, referring to the fine drizzle that may sweep in daily from the sea.

On the main island of Santa Cruz, various hotels are available including the SLH ??? in the Highlands, with amazing views to the sea. However the ideal way to explore the islands is of course by sea. The only vessels permitted to tour the remote Galapagos Islands have Ecuadorian registry, and fall under the auspices of the National Park whose responsibility is to conserve and preserve this unique UNESCO World Heritage Site. The park guardians limit the number of visitors to any location at any one time, and ensure an approved guide is on board all vessels. At each landing place, access to the island is limited – an approved trail, usually not longer than two or three miles, ensures that tourists do not stray in what is after all quite a hostile environment, and that they do not make any significant impact on this pristine environment. As a result, it is easy to sit on a beach and witness scenes which must have been almost identical one hundred, one thousand, or conceivably one million years ago: marine iguanas sunning themselves on the lava rock formations, sea lions frolicking in the surf, frigate birds circling overhead ready to steal a tempting morsel from an unsuspecting booby, pelicans flying low in formation, like a fleet of lumbering bombers, and brilliantly coloured red and blue sally lightfoot crabs scuttling across the sand.

Families or small groups travelling together might choose to charter a vessel accommodating 12 – 16 people, but for individuals we would recommend Ocean Adventures’ comfortable 48 passenger ship, the Eclipse. (Many other vessels are available, and we are happy to talk you through options.) This well run vessel features comfortable sea view cabins with compact bathroom and single seating dining which is offered either in the air conditioned dining room, or sometimes on deck at lunchtime; and house wines, soft drinks and juices are included in the fare. Eclipse, like the majority of vessels operating in the Galapagos, has a one week itinerary which takes you to a variety of islands. Some vessels operate a 3 and 4 day rotation, but we think a full week is ideal.

Eclipse carries four naturalist guides, and passengers can expect to make up to four excursions a day (included in the cost) which range from island walks to panga rides (pangas being the rigid structured rubber boats which whisk you ashore from the mother ship, anchored in the bay), and from snorkelling to kayaking. Whatever you select, you will be escorted by an expert guide who will enhance your Galapagos experience with his or her knowledge of this unique environment. Once ashore, you will be amazed at the fearless animals, reptiles and birds, who blink an incurious eye in your direction before continuing with their daily lives. Sealions flop against each other on sandy beaches or in shallow rock pools, whilst pups run up and down in search of playmates, trying to entice a companion into the shallows for a romp. Once in the water, these graceful creatures come into their own, as agile as any ballerina, and to watch them catch and ride a wave, or leap and play in the foaming surf, is a great joy. Meanwhile the dinosaur-like marine iguanas pile on top of each other or slump across the rocks as they warm themselves sufficiently to brave the waters, en route for the offshore algae beds where they feed.

Nearly everyone can snorkel, even if you are not a very strong swimmer. On Eclipse, wet suits are provided free of charge, and the buoyancy they give, combined with the natural buoyancy of the salt water, makes the snorkelling experience effortless and hugely rewarding. Expect curious sealions to come and show off how very much better they are than you at swimming; admire shoals of beautifully coloured fish, exploring underwater caves and drifting past sea urchins, starfish and anemones; or see a flock of penguins ‘fly’ beneath you; watch the gentle turtles paddle up to the surface to take a breath, before sinking beneath the waves, or the amazing sight of a group of rays swimming in formation.

For those of us who have never been able to relate to the obsessive ‘twitchers’, it is the birds which amaze the most. The opportunity to watch them close-up is extraordinary. The comical boobies, so ungainly on land, amaze us in the air as they make up their mind to dive, and plummet to the sea and the prize of a juicy fish. Flightless cormorants turn their strangely luminous turquoise eyes towards us, whilst the amazing wave albatrosses return to nest each year on Espanola, gracefully soaring overhead as they search out their mates after six months away.

Finally, don’t forget the tortoises after which the islands are named: their numbers fell as their habitat was damaged and almost destroyed by feral goats and donkeys, but the sterling work done by the Charles Darwin Research station and National Park is beginning to pay off as vegetation recovers and tortoises bred on Santa Cruz are released back into the wild once they are large enough to survive.

We think this is a ‘must do’ destination which everyone should have on their list, provided they are relatively sprightly. The experience is greatly enhanced if you are happy to go in the water. Uneven terrain makes walking difficult, and the majority of landings from the pangas are wet landings straight onto the beach. Even dry landings require a certain amount of agility.

HOW TO GET THERE
Of course it is not so easy to reach these remote islands. You must first get to Ecuador, and there are no direct flights to Quito from the UK. If you are prepared to travel via North America, you can make the connection with Continental over Houston, or with American over Miami. Alternatively KLM have direct (but not non-stop) flights from Amsterdam which are particularly good for regional departures, and Iberia has a connection via Madrid. You will probably have to spend at least one night in Quito both on the way out and the way back. We recommend taking more time to explore the beautiful country which is Ecuador. There are daily flights from Quito to Baltra in the Galapagos Islands, touching down at the coast in Guayaquil. The flight time is under two hours.

WHEN TO GO
The early part of the year is rainy season on mainland Ecuador and in the islands, but we would recommend March, April or May. From July to November, expect mists, drizzle and grey skies in the Galapagos, and a lower water temperature.

WHAT TO WEAR
Remember you are on the Equator, and it can be hot. Shorts or long trousers that dry easily, and loose ventilated tops are ideal. Take a lightweight waterproof jacket, comfortable walking shoes, and sandals which don’t mind getting wet for wet beach landings. The boats in the Galapagos are not at all dressy – casual is the dress code throughout.

DOCUMENTATION
A full British passport is required for travel to Ecuador, and if you are taking a North American route the usual restrictions apply – just because you are in transit it does not mean that a visa (or visa waiver form) will not be required. A National Park entry fee applies in the Galapagos – currently $100 – and a departure tax is payable in cash on departure from Ecuador – currently $42. A further permit for entry to the Galapagos must be purchased at the airport prior to your flight – currently $10

WHAT TO PACK
Ensure you have plenty of sunblock, a hat and Polaroid sunglasses with you. Photo opportunities are amazing – take twice as many photocards as you expect to need, and don’t forget your battery charger. A small rucksack is essential for carrying sunblock, insect repellent and water with you when you go ashore. Binoculars are not as essential as you might think – the wildlife is closer than you can imagine. Snorkelling equipment and water bottles are usually available on board.