The country itself is long and thin: from the lush southern meadows of the Telemark, at the same latitude as northern Scotland, a spine of mountains runs the full length of the country to the far North, finishing far within the Arctic circle at the border with Russia on the Barents Sea.

It is these mountains, and the intricate coastline, that make this country so difficult to navigate by land: narrow winding roads connect the isolated villages and towns, and there is a rail link all the way to Bodo, but not beyond. This is a wonderful scenic rail route, but nothing quite matches up to exploring Norway by water.

The incredible coastline of Norway has been carved out by glacial activity, with apparently endless sheer-sided fjords stretching their fingers far inland. In particular in the west around Bergen the Hardangerfjord, Sognefjord, Nordfjord and Geirangerfjord are key destinations for Norwegian Fjord cruises. As you sail the length of these tranquil waterways at slow speed, leaving hardly a ripple on the black glassy waters, gasping at the rocky precipices towering above you, the tiny roads carved out of the steep hillsides where infrequent cars look like toys creeping their way around the hairpin bends, the distant waterfalls bouncing their way down sheer crevasses, the lush greenery emerging from its winter coat of snow, the pretty villages clinging to narrow stretches of level land at the water’s edge, you will be caught up in visions of ancient days when a seafaring race grew up in a land totally dominated by its watery communications, and Vikings put to sea in search of other lands.

During the course of a day you might shiver through a grey mist – low-lying cloud caught between the cliffs – and then emerge into bright sunshine, get soaked in heavy rain and then emerge on deck after dinner to brilliant sunshine as midnight approaches.

The key cities of this region are Bergen, the former capital of Norway known as gateway to the Fjords, and Alesund rebuilt one hundred years ago in the classic Art Nouveau style. Do ensure Bergen is included on your itinerary. A fascinating historic city, the brightly coloured buildings alongside the harbour provide a glimpse into the city’s past and while you are there you will find a visit to the quayside fish market is irresistible. Gamle Bergen (Old Bergen) with its quaint clapperboard houses is well worth visiting. The city itself is surrounded by mountains and a short trip up the funicular railway which ascends Fløyen from the centre provides a superb view over the city. An alternative and more spectacular view is provided from the cable car at Ulriken.

Bergen is the starting point for one of Norway’s most fascinating transport services, the Hurtigruten or Norwegian Coastal Voyage, which leaves Bergen every single day of the year on a 12 day round trip journey all the way to Kirkenes in the far North and back. Originally a mail-boat, today the vessels provide a welcome means of transport for local people who hop on and off along the coast, and a delivery service for machinery, vehicles, foodstuffs or in fact anything that needs to be moved around the country. If you choose to join one of the Hurtigruten ships for a full voyage (or indeed for a few days) you will find it very different from a conventional cruise experience. Stopping frequently and sometimes for just a few hours at a time, the vessels are genuine working ships, and one of the greatest appeals for the tourist passenger is to watch the activity in every port of call. This is a unique and special travel experience, and on the newly updated Hurtigruten fleet, a very comfortable one as well.

One of the classic Norwegian voyages is referred to as the voyage to the Land of the Midnight Sun, and to be exact, these are voyages that take you further north to within the Arctic Circle, where indeed you will experience 24 hours of daylight during the height of summer, and, if the weather is good, the extraordinary sight of the sun sinking to the horizon and then beginning to rise again. As you travel further north, you leave behind the lush green pastures of fjordland and enter a far more forbidding world. The stunning beauty of the Lofoten islands, carved by the waters and the winds and home to an amazing array of sea birds, the amazing ice caps and glaciers, the glassy lakes and fascinating wildlife, and above all the welcoming people who are proud to show you their lands and talk to you about the challenges of living so far north, make this a very special journey. Strange indeed to round the looming cliffs of the North Cape, and find you are at the border with Russia: this really is like being in another world.

It is impossible to finish an account of Norway without mentioning its current capital, Oslo, located at the far end of the Oslo fjord. Not the prettiest city by any means, with its grey buildings and unappealing shopping streets, Oslo has nevertheless some outstanding and fascinating attractions. Not to be missed is the Munch art gallery, an extraordinary collection by this symbolist painter with his obsessive recurring themes of life, love, fear, death, and melancholy. Small enough to be entirely accessible even if you do not share Munch’s obsessions, the gallery houses a beautifully presented collection. Travel across the city to the Vigeland Park, an extraordinary collection of 212 sculptures modelled in full size by Gustav Vigeland, Munch’s near contemporary. Visit the Holmenkollen ski jump for some stunning views of the city and fjord, and take a boat across the fjord to see the Norwegian Folk Museum, the Viking ships and the Kon-Tiki raft.
If you wonder why so many senior mariners are Norwegian, you only have to look at their country to see that understanding the sea and its moods must be in their blood, and there is really nothing quite like sailing in Norwegian waters with a Norwegian Captain, whose elation at proudly showing off his home country is a joy to behold.

HOW TO GET THERE
Many cruise lines departing from UK ports offer Norwegian Fjords or Midnight Sun/North Cape cruises. Alternatively there are good air services into Oslo and Bergen, and a ferry service from Newcastle

WHEN TO GO
Midsummers Day is on 21st June, so that is when you can expect the longest days and no nights at all if you are traveling within the Arctic Circle. You can travel earlier – April and May when the snows begin to melt, the spring flowers blossom, and the waterfalls are at their most ebullient, can be a great time to be away, whilst overall you can expect warmer temperatures in July and August (although like the UK, the weather is rather unpredictable). Some people travel on the Hurtigruten in the winter, hoping for a glimpse of the Northern Lights, and maybe taking in the ice hotel. Norway is also a flourishing ski destination.

WHAT TO WEAR
Layers is the answer, when travelling in the summer or the winter. It can be very warm, but don’t count on it. Also be sure to take a waterproof jacket, and a change of socks if you are out for the day – it is easy to be caught in the rain. Obviously winters at this latitude are very cold – thermals and quilted clothing are a must, and who has not seen the heavy and brightly coloured woollen hats, gloves and jumpers which are part of the Norwegian heritage.

DOCUMENTATION
British passport holders do not need any special documentation for Norway, beyond a full British passport.

WHAT TO PACK
Don’t forget that the Euro is not an acceptable currency in Norway – the Norwegian Krone is what you need, and plenty of them, particularly for wines and spirits which are quite expensive. Don’t forget binoculars to really enjoy the scenery and wildlife, particularly if you are a bird enthusiast, and plenty of film.