In just about 15 years tourism in Vietnam has become a major industry. In the early 1990’s only the Ocean Pearl made occasional calls there – today there are many ships and itineraries from which to choose: some include just one call at Ho Chi Minh City, others sail between Hong Kong and Singapore with several stops giving the opportunity for wider exploration, and there are also comfortable river cruises from Ho Chi Minh City up the Mekong, exploring riverside communities and travelling on into Cambodia to visit Phnom Penh and continue to the great Temple complexes of Angkor.

Whichever you choose, you will discover a country which is totally different, culturally and atmospherically, from its neighbours. Its history of successive invasions and destruction over the centuries mean that there are few ancient monuments, but there is plenty of interest dating from the 19th century, and you may find the most fascinating aspect is the charm of rural Vietnam, contrasting with the buzz of Saigon.

A typical itinerary sailing from Hong Kong would call first in Halong Bay.

This area is truly beautiful. Rocks and islands rise out of the clear waters of the Gulf of Tonkin – it is no wonder that their extraordinary shapes have given rise to legends of dragons, and cruising slowly among them through swathes of early morning mist is a magical experience. You may remember the film Indochine which received many awards in 1992 – the scenes shot in Halong Bay were some of the most memorable.

A call at Hongai or Haiphong provides the opportunity for a day excursion to Hanoi. It is a long drive – over 3 hours – but it really would a shame to miss it. There is a frenetic market and labyrinthine Old City, but the main stops are the Temple Of Literature, dedicated to Confucius and regarded at the most important Temple in the country, with avenues of giant marble books. Hanoi’s centrepiece is Ho Chi Minh’s Mausoleum and the park that surrounds it where you visit his former home.

Da Nang is the jumping off point for more sightseeing: For those who can face another long day, there is the trip to the old capital of Hue: it is about a 3-hour drive, but the scenery is probably some of the loveliest in Vietnam, travelling over the Pass of the Ocean Clouds. Although Hue is referred to as the Ancient Capital, a series of conquerors over the centuries kept destroying the area, and the temples and palaces date mainly from the 19th century. Visits include the Forbidden Purple City, where a lot of restoration has been carried out to restore its former grandeur, and the extraordinary Tu Doc tomb with its elaborate ceramic decoration.

The shorter half day option would be a visit to the market town of Hoi An, often combined with another `off the tourist track’ small village. Hoi An is a very picturesque small market town with charming houses, pretty temples and a delightful bustling atmosphere – its unspoilt architecture has earned for it the UNESCO World Heritage Site designation, and while inevitably its popularity with visitors has led to development in the area, the centre is largely unchanged. It is worth hiring a pedicab to explore in comfort.

Officially it may have been renamed Ho Chi Minh City – but to most it will always be Saigon, and indeed the central downtown area is still called that. This is where it is all happening! It is so visibly different from the rest of the country: glittering modern high rise buildings, international deluxe hotels, restoration to the elegant French architecture and a real buzz to the place! Many ships stay overnight here and there is plentry to do. It is worth getting up early to be on deck as you sail up river to berth near the centre of town.

It is not hard to explore the centre on your own, $2 in a taxi will get you from one side of town to the other, and the cyclos are fun, though the authorities have banned them from certain areas because of traffic, but if it is your first visit, a city tour is the best way to get your bearings. These will usually include a visit to Cholon, the Chinatown area with its produce market and colourful Kuan Yin Temple, and a city drive around the old French Quarter with Notre Dame Cathedral, the ornate Post Office and the Opera House. Tours also visit the former Presidential Palace made famous when a North Vietnamese tank crashed through the gates in 1975, signalling the end of the Vietnam War. There might also be a visit to the Museum of History for an overview of Vietnamese culture, and a performance by water puppets, or to the newer war museum.

On the two-day stays there are usually additional tour options featuring a visit to the Mekong Delta with its waterside villages and the town of Cai Be with its enormous floating market and incongruous Catholic Cathedral. You could also choose the Cu Chi Tunnels, but even though these have been adapted for tourism, they are still a claustrophobic experience and not for everyone!

We really would recommend leaving some spare time just to get the feel of Saigon for yourself: the pretty girls wearing Ao-dai’s still ride around town, though scooters are now more common than bicycles, the traffic is a bit daunting, but you get used to it! The best place to shop for handicrafts is Ben Thanh Market, while for upscale fashion go to Diamond Plaza. Best buys are lacquerware, silk items, often beautifully beaded and embroidered, wonderful elaborately decorated silk handbags, and, if you are lucky enough to have small feet, exquisite shoes.

Another must-do is a visit to the Rex Hotel, the haunt of the Press Corps and Military during the Vietnam War, it was then the tallest building in town providing a great overview of the city. Now it is dwarfed by the surrounding high-rises, but the roof garden is still a good spot for coffee or cocktails.

Many cruiselines offer the opportunity for a pre- or post-cruise visit to the Temples at Angkor, or indeed the possibility to do this on a 2 or 3 day side trip during the cruise, but of course this would mean missing so much else. The whole Angkor area with the awe-inspiring Angkor Wat, the elaborately carved Angkor Thom, atmospheric jungle-covered Ta Prohm and more, is amazing – but it is worth more than just an excursion! Why not save it for another trip – maybe a Mekong River cruise which ends with a stay in Siem Reap and time to really appreciate the marvels of the area.